Wiki Menu
Dendrobates tinctorius Care and Breeding
Discover everything you need to know about caring for Dendrobates tinctorius, from setting up the perfect terrarium to feeding and breeding.
Dendrobates tinctorius, or the dyeing poison dart frog, is one of the most vibrant and captivating species in the amphibian world. Native to the tropical rainforests of South America, these frogs are famous for their stunning colors, which serve as a warning to predators about their toxicity. Interestingly, captive-bred frogs are non-toxic due to their controlled diets. Known for their lively behaviors and fascinating life cycle, these frogs can live up to 15 years in captivity and grow to 3.5-6 cm (1.4-2 inches) in size. Since the females tend to show more aggression than the males in this species, make sure you always have more males than females housed together. For breeding, we recommend the keeping of a pair, not groups.
Dendrobates tinctorius is available in several different color morphs, which vary in color patterns and intensity. These morphs are typically named based on the regions where they are found or the particular coloration they exhibit.
Care
Terrarium Size and Keeping
A single Dendrobates tinctorius or a pair should be housed in a terrarium no smaller than 45x45x45 cm (18x18x18 inches). For groups, opt for larger enclosures to allow space for exploration and to reduce territorial aggression. Vertical and horizontal climbing surfaces, along with plenty of hiding spots, are recommended. Avoid using substrates that get soaked in high humidity environments (we like using aquarium filter foam), and always cover it with leaf litter.
Temperature
Keep the terrarium at 22-27°C (72-80°F) during the day and allow for a slight drop to 20-22°C (68-72°F) at night. Avoid temperatures exceeding 30°C (86°F), as these can be fatal. Colder temperatures are less dangerous, but should be avoided over longer periods of time.
Humidity
Maintain high humidity levels of 80-100%. Mist the terrarium regularly, and include a drainage layer to prevent substrate oversaturation (not needed if you use filter foam as substrate). If you have a well ventilated terrarium, you can mist up to four or five times a day during the rain season. If you have a standard terrarium, three times a day is usually enough. During the dry season (see Breeding section for more details), one misting a day, or sometimes even every two days, tends to be enough. A hygrometer can help monitor and maintain consistent conditions.
Lighting
Provide a 12-hour light cycle with full-spectrum lighting. While Dendrobates tinctorius do not require UVB to survive, low levels of UVB can boost overall health and activity (we recommend turning on UVB for a few hours a week). Strong lighting also encourages plant growth, which benefits the frogs by providing natural cover and enhancing humidity.
Feeding
These frogs are insectivores, feeding primarily on small invertebrates in the wild. In captivity you should offer flightless fruit flies (Drosophila sp.) as a staple diet while occasionaly feeding them springtails, isopods, and pinhead crickets for variety. Always dust feeders with supplements like Repashy Calcium Plus or Dendrocare at every meal to ensure proper nutrition.
Breeding
Breeding Dendrobates tinctorius can be a rewarding experience with the right setup and attention to detail.
Sexing and Pairing
Males and females look similar, but males typically have larger toe pads and exhibit calling behaviors. Females are slightly larger and rounder in body shape. This being said, the only way to guarantee the sex of the animal is to see a male call or seeing a female lay eggs.
Breeding Setup
For breeding Dendrobates tinctorius, you'll need to provide secluded egg-laying sites such as petri dishes covered by coconut huts, or film cannisters. Males will call to attract females, and once a female is receptive, she will walk up to the male and start tapping his back, and he will take her to an egg deposition site. The eggs must remain in a humid environment at a stable temperature to develop properly. We recommend removing the eggs from the terrarium once they are laid (if they were laid on a petri dish, clean them with dechlorinated water and put a lid on, if they were laid in something else, use a pipette to flush them into a petri dish).
Tadpole Care
After the eggs are laid, it’s essential to keep them in a moist environment with consistent humidity. Once the eggs hatch, the tadpoles can be moved to a separate container or water feature, where they should be provided with dechlorinated water and fed high-quality fish flakes or tadpole food. The tadpoles can remain in the water for several weeks until they undergo metamorphosis into juvenile frogs. It is important to know that the colder it is, the slower the tadpoles will develop. We recommend keeping the tadpoles at around 22-27°C (72-80°F).
Froglet Care
Once Dendrobates tinctorius tadpoles have undergone metamorphosis and transformed into froglets, their care differs slightly from adults. At this stage, they are still small and vulnerable, so it’s essential to provide a carefully controlled environment.
Froglets should be housed in a separate, smaller enclosure to prevent larger frogs from bullying them. The tank should have plenty of hiding spots. The substrate should be soft and moist, but not overly wet, to ensure the froglets can easily navigate and stay hydrated. We recommend using small containers (such as Tuppeware with small holes) with sphagnum moss and leaft litter.
At this stage, they can be fed small, appropriately-sized prey such as springtails. Depending on the species of Springtail, you won't be able to add supplements before feeding. This being said, as soon as the froglets are large enough to eat Drosophila melanogaster, you should switch to feeding them, and adding supplements.
Seasonal Cycles
To encourage breeding, replicating the natural seasonal cycles is crucial. Mimicking the rainy season by increasing misting frequency, raising humidity levels, and extending light durations can stimulate breeding. These seasonal cues help trigger the frogs' natural reproductive behavior. During the dry season, you can reduce misting and light exposure to simulate the seasonal changes that occur in the wild. Dry seasons are not needed, but highly recommended in order to give the female two or three months to rest before she starts producing eggs again. This also ensures a higher yield rate for the eggs.
Morph Overview
References:
Animal Diversity Web - Dendrobates tinctorius. Available at: https://animaldiversity.org/accounts/Dendrobates_tinctorius/ (Accessed: 07.01.2025).
Dendrobase - Dendrobates tinctorius. Available at: https://www.dendrobase.de/html/D_dendrobates_tinctorius.html (Accessed: 07.01.2025).